It´s been a while ago since I posted anything. Actually I havn´t been updating the blog since the last day of the Central America trip. Well I havn´t been surfing any waves since, but I was paddling a lot during the summer, and now during the fall I have been windsurfing a lot. I finally starting to get the grip of windsurfing. Me and Lasse have spent a couples of days out each week. Here is some snaps a couple a weeks ago. The last good days before the real fall hit us. Tomorrow is going to be a epic storm. Don´t know if we are going to be able to surf or not. Ill guess we find out.
Today is the last day of the trip all the bags are packed, the board I rapped in bubble plastic and we are ready to go. We are going to driveng up to Ryan’s mom tonight and spend the night there and then she be driving us to the airport from there. The flight departs at 3pm.
We didn´t want to finish the trip without scoring some good waves here in San Diego, so we did a last desperate surf yesterday and we scored big time.
We went to a super localized spot were all the older people thought that the wave belonged to theme. A lot of trash talk from them, but that didn´t stop us….
Thanks Erica for taking all the photos during this trip!!!
See you guys in Sweden!!
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When we were up in Santa Barbara we went back to all the spots we used to go to; Mesa Ln, super Cucas, our old house, Ledbetter and so on. One day Andie brought us to a place just outside Santa Barbara up in the mountains. It was a fresh water spring with a lot of cool rock that we could climb and jump from. It was awesome to be back in SB and I miss it a lot but I also realized how much things I done since I was there studying.
After spending three days up in Santa Barbara Erica Ryan and I drove down the coast. We stopped and meet up with Spencer in Laguna, Ryan´s and my old roommate. We had lunch with Spencer and then drove down to a beach just south from there. Ryan went out surfing and Spencer went skim boarding. Erica and I stayed on the beach and snapped some photos instead.
BTW this is going to be a photo bomb this time
At the moment we are down in San Diego agian and Ryan and I hade a booomb surf session this morning. Photos will be here the next couple of days…
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After a long day a crossing the border from Tijuana to San Diego Ryan finally picked us in San Diego. We dropped of our things and went surfing the first thing. The waves wasn’t perfect but it felt good being back in the water again. I hadn´t surfed since main land Mexico. After that we spent a couple of days in San Diego just chilling at the beach meanwhile Ryan was working and hanging out with his dad at night.
Ryan’s girlfriend Andy still lives up in Santa Barbara so when he got some days of worked we did a little trip up there. Ill post some more photos from that trip soon. This photo is from one of the sunset sessions we had up there.
A couple days ago we left the pacific side for at short trip over to a last stop at sea of Cortez. We went to a place a couple of hour south from San Felipe. We drove on a road were Baja 1000 takes place. It´s a pretty dry out there. Erica and I thought that we would stay in a smaller village. When we showed up it turned out to be a campground on a beach with a couple of cabins.
The restaurant was closed but Dylan had some rice and beans that we cooked in the back of his truck. After the sunset we had a couple of Cuba Libres. Dylan told me about shooting at night and how he had done that the last time he was there, it wasn´t hard to talk me into a night session. The tripods came out and this is the result:
What you see in the forth photo is the milky way. The milky way is our galaxy and what you can see in the photo is the spiral of hour galaxy that can only been seen when its very dark. It also helps to leave the shutter open for a long time. The camera will then pick up lights from stars that we cant see with our own eyes.
Tomorrow we leaving Mexico behind us for San Diego
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After spending a couple of perfect days in La Paz Erica, Dylan and I headed north. If I didn´t mention we bumped in to Dylan at the ferry and decided to tag along to Loreto. After talking for a while it turned out that we were going to the same places and had about the same amount of time doing it. Instead of traveling together only to Loreto the new plan is to travel together all the way to Ensenadas.
We spent the night in Loreto and had breakfast with when of Dylan´s friends he met on the way down here. We hit the road again, but only drove for about one hour before we found this beautiful beach with now people and warm water. After one hour or so at the beach it was time to start putting some km behind us.
We drove through mountains, dessert and a fog dessert the stretched for hours. Finally we showed up on the pacific side again at a place called Bahia Asuncion. We staying at a place called Bufdor Inn which is owned by a Canadian called Shari.
That’s it for now and hopefully there will be some waves here tomorrow ….
Tonight we are going to try out some Mexican microbrewery beer. Later
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Erica and I left Mazatlan a couple days ago. On the ferry we meet two Mexican guys and one guy from US. To make a long storie short the American guy Dylan have a Toyota Land Cruiser which he have been traveling around with the past 8 months down in central America. The good thing is that he has the same time schedule getting up to Ensenadas in northern Mexico. Just like that Erica and I got a ride all the way through Baja California.
Before leaving La Paz we heard that some people spotted orcas a couple days ago at the island a couple km out. We booked the trip and made Dylan come with us.
We didn’t see any orcas on the trip but we did see a lot of other animals.
After the trip we jumped into the car and hurried up to a coast town called Loreto. Tomorrow we talking of early and heading for the pacific once again
I’m soooo happy!
Since El Salvador I haven’t uploaded that much pictures or movies of me surfing. It was hard to perform better than I was doing those couple of days.
In Guatemala I didn´t get any recordings at all, but up in Mexico I finally scored again. As I wrote earlier a really big swell hit the coast the last couple of days and a point break that only works when the swell is bigger than at least six feet went of.
The first day I was out there I was sitting by myself with 30 Mexicans. The next day Erica and I had changed hotel and ended up staying at a local surfer’s house. I can tell you that it was easier catching waves that day when I showed up with him and his son compared to the day before.
The dad was good but the kid was even better. Last year he competed for the Mexican team down in Panama. The last wave in the video was recorded or shot from a guy in the water. Hopefully Ill be able to get those shots.
4 pm today the ferry leavs the dock here in Mazatlan.
We are of for Baja.
From Puerto Escondido Erica and I travelled four hours north to place called Ixtapa. We found out that Ixtapa is more like a resort town and we had some hard time finding a reasonable priced hotel. After a while we ended up paying 400 pesos a night. We spent my 26th birthday on Isla the Ixtapa. Erica hand planned everything and the snorkeling there was amazing.
After a couple of days a big swell hit the whole coast and all the beaches were closing out. After studying the map and forecast I found a place that might work on that kind of swell and boy it did. This is just a couple of photos from there. The movie will be up in a day or so.
Later tonight we going to jump on a 16 hour buss to Mazatlan. We going to spend one night there before catching the ferry over to Baja California and La Paz.
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Today I snapped my board. I always thought that snapping my first board would be me and a big close out barrel, that wasn´t the case.
I was paddling out between two rocks at La Punta in Puerto Escondido. The current was strong and dragged me close to one of the rocks so I decided to turn around and paddle in again. When I was paddling back in a “steep” wave caught me and I went over the falls whit the board in front of me. Since it was shallow the noose of the board got stock in the bottom. Unfortunately one of the fins got stock in my thigh and when I got back up at the beach to board was snapped in to places. Like that wasn´t all the current caught me again walking through the caves back to the beach and I dinged the nose of the board. Ill guess I have been lucky so far, but this suck.
The good thing about snapping the board was that I snapped the board in Puerto Escondido. I bet they fix snapped boards everyday here. I left it in the morning at 10 and then picked it up at 4pm. Since the board was snapped I told the guy that if he wanted to he could paint something Mexican on it. Well I guess that information didn´t go all the way, or he might feel something for the country which language he speak.